If you have not yet seen Chris Rock’s documentary “Good Hair,” I highly recommend that you do and while you are at it, grab a couple of girlfriends and make it a full ladies’ night out. Although I am not a big fan of Chris Rock’s traditional stand-up comedy routines, I found “Good Hair” to be a refreshingly honest look at the hair industry and the life-long ordeal most women of color go through with their hair. The documentary certainly left me reflecting on my own hair journey and analyzing the choices I have made along the way that – consciously or subconsciously – have been influenced by my need to adhere to my socio-cultural expectations.
I remember being forced to wear my hair short and natural throughout high school as part of boarding school regulations. I found the daily routine of running an “afro” comb through my stubborn kinky hair to be an ordeal. This could only be undergone with eliciting pain by combing the hair immediately after a shower before it settled into its usual locks. Getting a perm was the first thing I did after I graduated from high school. It brought with it a sense of femininity; a crowning glory at the end of a passage of rite that I bore with such pride. After years of straightening my hair, I am starting to wonder what my fascination with long permed hair was to begin with anyway.
My article is on a somewhat related issue. I noticed a couple of years ago that my hairline seemed to be slowly receding. Scared that I was going bald, I consulted my physician who after asking a couple of questions and examining my hair said it was most likely a case of ‘traction alopecia.’
What is Traction Alopecia?
Apparently it is a very common condition seen mainly in African American women who frequently braid their hair. The tight pull of the braids or cornrows on the frontal and temporal regions of the scalp cause hair to loosen or break from their follicular roots. Wearing tight rollers or cullers can also have the same tension forces on the hairline. Existing damage to hair from frequent chemical applications (perm or coloring) or hot straightening combs increases the risk of getting this hair disorder.
Most women initially complain of dry, itchy scalps with areas of thickening along the hairline. Then they might develop pustules, scaling and dandruff which returns despite frequent treatment with dandruff shampoos. As their hair breaks off and the follicles die, short stubs of hair can be traced along the hairline sometimes receding as far as 4 centimeters or more inwards. When hair does grow back in these areas, it tends to be very thin, fine and short compared to the rest of the hair. However, when traction continues for a very long time, permanent loss of hair can occur leaving bald patches.
Treatment & Prevention
The number one treatment for early detected traction alopecia is relieving tension on the hair roots. This means stopping any practices such as tight braids or roller setting that increase pulling forces on the hair. A friend of mine practices what she likes to call a “fallow period”. This is when she goes completely natural for a couple of months or up to a year in order to give her hair a chance to refuel and start from scratch. Other times, she likes to wear weaves so that her permed hair gets a rest from daily combing and frequent chemical straightening. Wearing your hair less frequently in pony tails can also help relieve the tension on your hairline. Since damage accumulates over a period of time, using the services of a licensed professional hair stylist will help reduce over-processing during chemical treatments and help to quickly identify problem areas. As always, taking care of yourself by eating a healthy diet and exercising frequently will also make you grow healthier, stronger hair that might be able to withstand or recover quickly from hair treatments.
Unfortunately, when diagnosed very late, hair loss may be irreversible. Some women find surgical hair transplantation procedures helpful in correcting areas of baldness. However, this might not be an affordable option for many women. Invest instead in several quality wigs or experiment with different weaves until you find the one that looks most natural and fits the curves of your face.
Other causes of hair loss
It is important to discuss any concerns you might have about your hair with your health care provider. Sometimes these are indicators of a more serious health problem which might need further investigation and treatment. Common causes of hair loss include:
- Hormonal changesà usually associated with a temporary hair loss due to discontinuation of oral contraceptives, menopause, pregnancy, overactive or underactive thyroid
- Medicationsàe.g. drugs used to treat depression, high blood pressure, arthritis, and gout. Radiation or chemotherapy usually are also associated with hair loss
- Infections/Diseasesà e.g. ringworm, lupus, diabetes
- Psychiatric conditionà “trichotillomania” which is a constant urge to pull at your hair
- Poor nutritionàseen mainly in people who go on frequent fad diets low in iron and protein or those who suffer from an eating disorder such as anorexia
It was very clear after speaking with my doctor that I had to make some changes in my hair styling choices if I was going to have any hope of reversing some of the damage along my hairline. With my hectic schedule and need for easily manageable hair, I am carefully exploring what alternatives to frequent chemical straightening might exist for me. As I begin to embark on a new hair journey I am very conscious of the pressures and demands to conform so humorously brought to light in Good Hair. Hopefully, whatever path I decide to take, it will be one that allows me to stay true to who I am as a woman of color and of course, leave me with as few bald patches as possible.
Sources:
- Mayo Clinic: Hair Loss. Available at URL:
http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/hair-loss/DS00278. Accessed 02/17/10
- Hantash, BM. Traction Alopecia. Emedicine Specialties, Dermatology. Available at URL: http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1073559-overview. Accessed 02/17/2010
Images
- http://womanhairgrowth.info/wpcontent/gallery/traction_alopecia/traction_alopecia_woman_1.jpg
- http://hairtx.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/black-hair-traction-alopecia.jpg
